Cottage windows are small, simple casement windows, usually side-hung and often divided into small panes by glazing bars, set deep into thick walls under low eaves. For a replacement to look right on a cottage, the key features are slim, flush-fitting casements (where the opening vent sits level with the frame rather than standing proud of it), small panes or a simple bar pattern, and frames sized to the existing openings rather than enlarged. If the cottage is listed or in a conservation area, the rules come before the style. Read on for how we approach cottage windows, and see our casement windows page for the general range.
What makes a cottage window
Cottage windows grew out of local building traditions rather than formal architecture. Historic England’s guidance on traditional windows records cast-iron lattice windows on mid-19th-century estate cottages, small-pane cottage windows becoming popular for model workers’ housing towards the end of the 19th century, and leaded lights in use from the late 16th century. Across Berkshire, Buckinghamshire and Surrey you find brick and flint cottages, timber-framed cottages with leaded casements, and Victorian estate cottages with neat small-pane windows, each with its own character.
What they share is scale. The windows are small relative to the wall, often wider than tall, sometimes tucked under the eaves or in a dormer. A replacement that is too chunky, too bright or too large is immediately obvious.
Flush casements explained
On a standard modern casement the opening vent overlaps the outer frame and stands slightly proud of it, so you see a step. A flush casement has the vent sitting in the same plane as the frame, which is how traditional cottage casements were made. The result is a flatter, neater face that suits cottages and period houses.
Flush casements usually cost more than standard casements and the frame can be slightly wider. Not every system offers flush vents in every size, and very small vents can be a challenge. Ask us and we’ll confirm the options for your system and sizes once we have measured the openings.
Design choices for cottage windows
Pane pattern
Common cottage patterns include two or three small panes per vent with a single horizontal bar, simple Georgian-style grids, or leaded diamond or square patterns. Copy the originals where they survive. Our Georgian windows page explains the difference between bars applied to the glass and bars inside the unit; on a cottage seen up close from a lane or garden, applied bars look more convincing. For leaded designs, see decorative glass.
Colour
Bright white can look harsh on an old cottage. Off-whites, creams, soft greens and woodgrain finishes often sit better against brick, flint, render or stone. We explain the options on our window colours page.
Ironmongery
Monkey-tail or pear-drop style handles and traditional-look stays suit cottages better than modern lever handles. Ask us what is available in your chosen system and colour.
Fit within the wall
Cottage walls are often thick and uneven. We fit replacement frames set back in the reveal where the originals were, and make good the reveal and cill, rather than pushing frames to the outer face. Old openings are rarely square, so we survey carefully and fabricate to suit.
Practical limits
- Small sizes. Very small casements have little room for hinges and locks. Sometimes a fixed pane with a single opening vent works better than two tiny vents.
- Fire escape. First-floor bedrooms in a cottage often have small windows. Councils such as Richmond summarise the escape requirement as an unobstructed opening of at least 0.33m², at least 450mm wide and high, with a cill no higher than 1100mm. A replacement should not be worse than what it replaces, and where possible we will design one casement to give a good escape opening.
- Low eaves and dormers. Access can be tight; we plan scaffolding or towers at survey stage.
- Ventilation. Old cottages often rely on air movement to keep solid walls dry. Keep trickle vents or other background ventilation in mind when sealing up draughty windows.
Listed cottages and rural areas
Many cottages are listed, sit in conservation areas, or lie in a National Landscape such as the Chilterns or Surrey Hills. The Planning Portal notes that listed building consent is needed for significant works to a listed building, and that designated areas and Article 4 Directions can add restrictions to otherwise permitted works. Speak to your council’s conservation officer before ordering anything for a listed cottage.
Historic England’s position is that surviving historic windows should be conserved and repaired where possible. On listed cottages councils often expect timber or the repair of original windows, and we do not make timber windows. In those cases secondary glazing fitted inside the original casements may be the better answer. Where the cottage is not listed and has already lost its originals, a well-proportioned UPVC flush casement in a woodgrain or heritage colour is a practical choice. Our planning permission guide explains the general rules.
Energy and comfort
Replacement windows must meet 1.4 W/m²K or band B under Approved Document L, with some flexibility where the character of a historic building must be kept. On small cottage windows the frame is a large share of the area, so frame performance matters as much as the glass. We use a single sealed unit per vent with bars applied rather than splitting it into many small units. For more on ratings see energy rated windows.
Common mistakes
- Enlarging openings to fit standard sizes.
- Bars inside the glass on windows that are seen from a metre away.
- Thick, stepped frames that dominate small openings.
- Ordering before checking listing status or Article 4 restrictions.
Care
Wipe frames with mild soapy water, keep drainage slots clear, and lubricate hinges and locks once a year. In damp rural spots, open trickle vents and windows regularly to manage condensation.
Book a survey
We supply UPVC windows on the Selecta Advance 70 system and fabricate aluminium windows from £400, with lead times from 10 days and a 10-year guarantee, across Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Surrey, west Kent and north West Sussex. Call 01753 965 005 or request a quote for a free survey of your cottage windows.
Frequently asked questions
What is a flush casement window?
A flush casement has the opening vent sitting level with the outer frame rather than overlapping it and standing proud. That gives a flat, neat face like a traditional cottage casement. Flush casements usually cost a little more than standard ones and are not available in every system or size, so we confirm options after measuring.
Can I fit UPVC windows in a listed cottage?
Only with listed building consent, and many councils expect timber or the repair of original windows on listed cottages. Speak to your conservation officer first. We do not make timber windows, so where timber is required we may suggest secondary glazing inside the existing windows to improve warmth and cut draughts instead.
Do small cottage windows need to be fire escape windows?
First-floor bedroom windows generally need to provide an escape route. The usual guide is an unobstructed opening of at least 0.33m², at least 450mm wide and high, with a cill no more than 1100mm above the floor. A replacement must not be worse than the window it replaces, so we design around this.
What colour windows suit a cottage?
Soft off-whites, creams, muted greens and woodgrain finishes often look more natural on brick, flint, stone or render than bright white. Look at the colours on similar cottages nearby and any conservation area guidance from your council. We can show samples on site so you can judge them against your walls in daylight.
Will new cottage windows be as warm as larger modern windows?
They must meet the same standard for replacement windows: 1.4 W/m²K or band B. On small windows the frame is a bigger share of the total area, so frame quality matters. We use one sealed unit per vent with bars applied to it, which performs better than dividing the window into lots of tiny units.